Summer Selfies

Well, I have just returned from my last trip for this summer and I have got to say, It. Was. AMAZING. All my trips this summer revitalized, fed my inner foodie, gave me perspective and a plethora of other things. So here are some pictures to help you "live vicariously" and "experience" my summer travels from Vienna, to Budva, stops in Macedonia and Greece, Saranda in Albania and finally Budapest. This summer was worth MORE than a thousand photos, I hope you enjoy!

Let's start with some videos~

Watching Lost Frequencies at Donauinsel Fest

A guy jumping into the Blue Eye in Saranda, Albania

PHOTO TIME!

Vienna - Donauinsel Fest

 Riding the Ferris Wheel in Vienna

 Yummy Persian Food

 Views of Vienna from Danube Tower

 Crowd watching Lost Frequencies

 Backstage crew ;-)

 My lovely friend and "tour guide"

 Our concert crew

 American candy store in Vienna!

Last meal leaving my "second home"

Budva, Montenegro

Storm's coming in...

 Dinner Date

Grilled Squid

 Dinner, Fresh fish with potatoes and spinach

 Dinner Views

Beach Bums

Sitting along the Adriatic

 Megi and I waiting for the rain to pass

The Ballerina Statue, which is actually just a lady standing...

Saranda, Albania

 Gjirokaster, Albania - 2500+ year old city in Southern Albania, also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Dinner views of the Adriatic sea in Saranda

"Thelma and Louise"

Sunagogue Ruins in the center of Saranda

Entrance to the Cemetery at the monastery near Saranda. 

 Monastery outside Saranda

 View of MEsepotam outside Saranda from the Monastery.

Syri i Kalter - The Blue Eye

 Church ruins outside the entrance road to Syri i Kalter

 

Budapest, Hungary

2nd Largest Synagogue in the world. 

Willow tree in the courtyard of the synagogue commemorating those lost during the Holocaust

Street art

 St. Stephens Basilica

Flower Gelato!

 The Captain - rub his tummy for good luck eating in Budapest... ;)

 On Chain Bridge

 Olympic Park with all Hungary's gold medal winners listed.

 Beautiful Architecture

 Kosher pastry shop worth a visit in Budapest (pest side)

 Open air work commemorating the 50th anniversary of the Hungarian and Polish Revolutions

Shoes commemorating the Jews shot into the Danube during the Holocaust

 View of Buda behind me

 Snacks and Beer ;)

My travel buddy and I <3

 Looking toward Buda Castle from Chain Bridge

 Parliament

 Chain Bridge

 Sitting on the wall near Fisherman's Bastion

 Outdoor square at the metro station

 Dancing in the streets...

 Ruin Bar

 Ruin Bar

 Inside the first ruin bar in Budapest

 Inside Szimplet Ruin bar

 View from Elizabeth Bridge

 Rudas Thermal Baths - a not miss in Hungary

 Lunch!

 Metro and Mapping it...

 Kissing the Groom-to-Be

 Memorial for fallen heroes of Hungarian Descent

 3rd Wedding we saw during our 4 days in Budapest

Walking through one of Budapest's beautiful green parks.

 Heroes Square

 Akvarium Bar

 Monuments on Hero's Square

 Parliament

 Water View of Parliament

 Looking toward Parliament

Great ending to a Fruitful and Experience filled summer. Cheers to the start of a new school year :)

OH sa mire te kam qene ne Shqiperia!

I was attempting to wait until the complete end of my summer travels to blog one big blog BUT I cant, because my Trip to Albania was Fan-Tabulous! I had the greatest of times in Albania, between my travel buddy, the food and the scenery and options, Albania is definitely worthy of the term “hidden gem”.

I spent 4 days at a hostel in Saranda, Albania which is a coastal city in the south. Saranda is interesting in that it is very city, but right next to the hustle and bustle there are kilometers of rocky, clear blue and green Adriatic water and FULL of Umbrella and sunscreen-clad sun seekers. We spent four days in Saranda, two of which we did day trips to nearby areas, The Blue Eye Spring and Gjirokaster. The opportunities form Saranda are AMAZING and the views are beautiful! The first day in Saranda, we stayed strictly on the beach, This trip was for food and relaxation and that is exactly what we did. Cocktails, food, sea and lots of sun, I am sure I am about 7 shades darker from that hot Albanian sun. We also enjoyed AMAZING seafood Albania’s waters had to offer us. We ate like Superstars and splurged every evening on treats such as fresh grilled octopus in a white cream sauce and grilled stuffed squid with fresh salad and great wine and cocktails. (Foodies will love this area of the world!)

While in Saranda, we did a day trip to the Blue Eye, in Albanian, Syri I Kalter. It is a spring which, from the top, looks like the iris and surrounding area of an eye which is where the spring gets its name, The center of the spring is at least 50 meters deep and pushes you up when you jump in, but what wasn’t told was just how COLD the water was! The reason everyone has these photos sans people is because you jump in and after about 30 seconds, your body starts freezing the water is so cold. We met this super sweet Aussie couple when we were at the hostel who accompanied us to the Blue Eye and it was awesome hearing about them and their travel experiences thus far. You can check out their blog here if you wish to see their travels in and around the world thus far J We hiked (it felt like it in that 90 something degree heat and dusty road, it was about 2km worth of walking sooo yes HIKE!) to the Blue eye and jumped right in! We saw an (what seemed to be) abandoned church at the entrance, and explored that some before walking to the Spring. Once we enjoyed the spring and the AWESOME photo opportunities this natural wonder offered we stopped at a Monastery which is being restored and got some beautiful views of villages just outside Saranda and the construction process for the monastery.

Our second day trip to Gjirokaster took us on an unexpected tour of the variances of Albania’s landscape and we went from coastal beach town to arid, dry almost desert areas in the process of an hour. Gjirokaster is situated at the bottom of mountains which meet to form a wide dry valley. It is a beautiful and intriguing site which, to get to, you take Winding, up and down mountain roads, along the sides of mountains that range from luscious trees and greenery to jagged rocks and steep cliffs. Gjirokaster is a city that has been in existence for over 2500 years, and has an old and new city. The old city is situated more into the mountain, whereas the new city goes from the bottom of the mountain into the valley. There is a stark contrast when you are walking down one of the major roads between the two areas that you know you cross from old to new city. There is a beautiful Kalaja – Albanian for castle/fortress that sits atop the old city and looks out into the valley. The fortress is fairly complete and was the first complete fortress I have been to in Eastern Europe up until this point. It was used as a location to hold weapons for the Albanian army. In addition to the complete Kalaja, there is a World War Two airplane in an outdoor area that you have COMPLETE access to.

Overall Albanian proved to be an amazing choice and I definitely have plans to further explore, not just southern, but all of Albanian in the future. The people were sweet (knowing Albanian and the expressions/reactions which That caused were PRICELESS), food was Amazing, destinations were endless and overall just an amazing trip. Ill post a comprehensive summer travel blog after my final trip and another post of all Photos :)

Happy Summer!

Mansions, Pools and Privilege too

Alton Sterling. Philando Castile.

     These are two names of the 100's of black lives that have been killed in America by police in 2016 alone. These men and all those who have lost their lives to police brutality are more than hashtags. They are ALL worthy of more than a day(s) plus of a breaking news story. All of them, in their most basic form, are HUMANS. A living, breathing, feeling being; a person with a family, friends, loved ones who were and live on as more than a statistic of being shot down by police. At the core of the issue as well is one of them could have easily been ME.
     I am PRIVILEGED, and my privilege smacked me in the face on July 9th. As I read over Facebook post, news articles, tweets and messages between fellow volunteers of color, I became angry. Why was this happening again? Does NO ONE see our humanity, do they not understand that black lives are being ATTACKED and MURDERED on American streets for the whole world to see, here goes another case without a conviction. I wanted to get up and do something, let my voice be heard and my humanity to be seen, and in that moment my privilege smacked me, all 25 plus years of it. Who was I to be upset when there I was sitting in a foreign land, at a beautiful house, lounging by the pool. Me and my degree, my "great" upbringing, my world traveling. Who was I to be upset about anything?! Well here is the thing, despite all the experiences, education and "connections" I may have, I can easily be one encounter away from being a hashtag on someones timeline simply because of my melanated epidermis. Another volunteer and I had this conversation and the point we came to was the same as above, except for us we could be labeled a black returned peace corps volunteer killed by police, instead of black woman killed by police. Even with that we know that all aspects of our life would be investigated, and despite the fact that we served our country to promote peace and bridge gaps, the fact that we are serving in a majority Muslim country could be used against us, the fact that our neighborhoods in country are majority Muslim could be used to spin a story of "ISIS connections" or any other ridiculous comment to paint us in a negative light. But if we are the victims why would WE or whoever the victim is be investigated? Why does the person who is no longer living become subject to scrutiny, rather than the offending officer? What about their past, their family history, THEIR run in with the system or citizens? But this is what being black in America is like - never good enough and in some way deserving of whatever misfortune comes to you. So how do I explain to my host families, my friends what is it like to be Black in America? Conversely, how do I explain to my family and friends in America what its like to be Black in Eastern Europe? My current home, but a place where I am perceived with curiosity, misunderstanding and judged to be something other than what I am. A place where my character, behavior and experiences are not relegated based upon face to face interaction, but rather what they see on television, which is full of American programs, and portrays me as either someones "baby mama", a loud/crazy, neck rolling, attitude having woman, or someone who is promiscuous - but ultimately just my skin. Do you see the issue with that? The fact that a lot of interactions I have are based upon my hair or my skin, and sometimes people just can't get past that. They don't really want to know my experiences but want to understand why I am "different" and why I am here. But me just being isn't enough, it always has to be related to my blackness. Constantly stuck in a place where my epidermis is what defines me, my interactions my life.

     As a black woman, I live a very privileged life, however, I also live a life of having to constantly prove, explain and show myself not only "worthy" but also as being more than what I am portrayed to be. I am tired though. Tired of having to jump through so many hoops. There is a serious problem in American institutions as well as in the overall American psyche about what it means to be Black. Being Black to me is about having a unique history. Its about being innovative, progressive, family and community oriented, being able to grow and flourish from concrete. Its about wanting to break barriers and leave them behind, about being accepted and spreading love. My job as a PCV is more than whats stated in a manual or brochure. It is about breaking down stereotypes associated with me and showing people how to love treat, enjoy and respect one another (Though I am still working on a baby I know who after a year still gets scared when he sees me :-/ ). I don't want to be the "standard" for which all people of color are judged, but I do want to be the standard for which all people "like me" are respected.

     My privilege is sometimes burdensome, but in other moments it provides me with unique opportunities to meet people in a manner others don't have the ability to. I will continue to learn to wear my privilege proudly and will use it to make a change, even if it doesn't allow me to make differences where I want, a difference can be made. That keeps me going because others weren't afforded the opportunity to even acknowledge theirs, so for that I must continue work that is bigger than me.
So we don't forget here are some of their names: Sandra Bland, Tamir Rice, Eric Garner, Mike Brown and all those who the news cycle didn't acknowledge - Love.

 - Ashley

Bajramit i Dyte

     Per Hajr Bajramit! Happy Bajram. The end to the holiest month in the Islamic Calendar, Ramdan, Bajram is a huge fest for Muslims all across the world. This year I am officially at my permanent site and celebrated Eid-al-Fitr with my entire host family. The process of preparing for Bajram begins days earlier with the baking of cakes, buying of treats and a THOROUGH cleaning, washing and preparation of each house for guests.
    This year Bajram was a little different for me because I (attempted to) fast. Now let me add my disclaimer here where I say the INTENT was the whole month of Ramadan, HOWEVER, the inner foodie in me and the fact that I was traveling changed those plans. I did however fast for about 8 days. Add to the fact that for the first 3/4 days my host father would ask me every morning if I was still fasting, to which I replied yes - I assume he thought I wouldn't make it past day one, so I would say that I did pretty darn good :) When fasting the "rules" are no food or drinking during daylight hours, and you can eat and drink from sundown and until before sunrise which ranged everyday from various minutes between 3:10-3:30am. As someone who had never fasted in this manner before, I spent the first 2-3 days drinking small amounts of water throughout the day to ease my body into fasting (at the recommendation of some Muslim friends). After which I complied fully to the rules and abstained from food and drinking during daylight hours. When friends, family and people in my community learned that I was fasting the response was usually the same. First a gasp and people asking "Really, you're fasting? Why?" followed by, pure excitement and encouragement for attempting to experience their culture. I told my students and it was ALL the rage to where the next morning in school my students were THOROUGHLY informed of my decision. When my host grandmother learned I was fasting I was met with lots of hand grabbing, smiles and shume mire's (oh, and the news QUICKLY spread throughout the family and to any bystander of my fasting). Though I only fasted for a week I truly came to appreciate a variety of things and learned some things as well.
     First thing I learned is I have a lot of self restraint. Having to be around people who are eating and drinking while you are not is hard, even harder when you're a self-proclaimed foodie and the smell of Laknire goes wafting through the air, but you enter this kick-ass mental state of blocking out such actions and learning to talk to your body (or at least I did). To my surprise, the first few days were easiest and the longer I fasted the harder it became - NO one warned me of this. You become very aware of your body and you are extremely fatigued while fasting. When Bajram began, school was still in session so I would wake up, go to work come home and nap, depending on the day it was 1.5-3 hours at a time (and you're STILL tired after so it is truly exhausting on your body) then I'd go and socialize with family until it was time for Iftar (the breaking of the fast).
     The second thing I learned is you have to really dive into trying new things to gain appreciation. I remember as a kid when Lent (the holy time for Christians where we prepare for the resurrection of Jesus Christ) would come and I would hate having to choose something to give up. Fast forward to now and I appreciate this time so much more. Fasting made me realize how I want to be a better volunteer, Christian and be a better version of myself. I have recently been on an in-depth self evaluation and doing the fast revealed a variety of things and helped me to delve deeper into myself and my mindset. While doing self evaluation I also reflected on my service and saw opportunities for growth and made realizations as well.
     Third realization is that I have become closer to my Muslim friends and we had discussions about their religion and it gave me a deeper understanding and respect for who they are and what they believe. I have never been one to shy away from learning about religions, but this experience has caused me to be more explorative in my own religion as well as that of others. I wish people would take the time to really see how you can learn and grow from other religions instead of using this difference to segregate and vilify each other. Their is beauty in the differences, as well as the similarities. To group a religion together because you lack understanding or contact creates the environment for ignorant comments, ideas and personifications to occur. So I implore people to do their research, talk to someone and just accept those differences and promote peace. You would be surprised what you learn about them and yourself ;-){Sorry, rant done.}
     The holy month of Ramadan brings together all Muslims to reflect, recenter and rededicate themselves to their faith. Being blessed with the opportunity to share in such an experience has given me more perspectives and respect for this culture. Below are some photos during Bajram from my time with my family and again Happy Bajram to all my Muslim friends!

 Attempting to get my host sis to take a picture with me

 Brunch is served! 

 Family siting around talking, enjoying each others company

 "My girls" and I 

 Family at my Host Aunt's house

 Host mama and my host aunt (#besties)

 Host Mom pressing out the Rollal

Even my host brother helped out, crushing Biscuits! :)

Typical dessert plate served at every house you visit! (from R-L: Rollal {Which I helped make}, Bakllava, mini Rollal without filling and Torta) 

Until Next Time

 - Ashley

A Year in Kosovo!

On June 7, 2015 I arrived on Kosovar soil, and it has been a crazy, growing, exciting, interesting year. When I arrived in Kosovo, I would have never guessed that I would experience and participate in such a variety of things. Being here has definitely stretched me as a person, and provided me with new realizations, viewpoints, friends and perspectives. Add to the fact that our new group has finally arrived, I feel it important to list some growing points/accomplishments which have occurred thus far in my service.

Growing Points

1. Expect the Unexpected
• During my Training and my first year of service there were many events and happenings that were, and still are, out of my control. As someone who loves to be in control, I can be honest about it :) , adjusting to this Peace Corps lifestyle ha(s)d its hard moments however, there is beauty and strength that arises from not always being in control of things. I am not submitting the idea that its an easy transition, or an enjoyable one; rather I am saying it is one that shows your true character and causes you to pause and think about you, your reactions and your actions.
2. Learning a new Culture
• Being immersed in a new culture where you live with families is something beautiful and stressful. If you are a highly independent person this can cause you to feel stressed and annoyed sometimes however, those moments get outweighed by family gatherings, correctly done cultural moments, feeling included and many other things. Don't be dismayed if even a year and some change in you still commit cultural faux-pas because everything is a learning experience, Right? I say that to say, no matter how long or how much you think you know, unless born into these societies there will always be something to learn, and something new to experience. Just go along for the ride and ask for lots of forgiveness
3.  Becoming comfortable with standing out
• This point is something which I am still dealing with. As a minority in this country, I receive a lot of attention, especially unwanted attention. When I first started my service, everyday was a battle ground of emotions - majority negative- when it came to how people received and perceived me in this country. I am and have learned that the only thing I can control is my response and how I do or do not allow these people to effect my personal peace and sanity. Not everyone means it in a malicious manner, I have encountered those who have meant it that way, but most intent boils down to curiosity or ignorance. Curiosity can stem from my complexion, my hair, (as I have been told) my beauty, my gender, nationality and a variety of other factors. Other times it has been from the idea of what is portrayed on television is taken as fact/truth and I must react accordingly. It is hard to be perceived and defined and received by such a skewed outlook but that is part of the reason I decided to join the Peace Corps (though I didn't realize just how hard the role of "change agent" would be).
4. Lack of Understanding
• This extends beyond just HCN (host country national) to PCV (Peace Corps Volunteer). This includes staff, volunteers, friends and family stateside and so many people in-between. Lack of understanding goes for expressions, responses, culture, food, people, actions etc. The nuances which define each person individually and in the larger social/cultural context. You have to be willing to put biases, prejudices, rejections to the side to continuously strive for understanding and tolerance.
5. Being Open
• Personally, I still deal with this growth point because I, for some time during my service, had developed a shell towards the people in my host country because of the reception I received, I no longer wanted to be hurt or feel uncomfortable, so I developed a demeanor and standard reactions/practices to counter what I was experiencing. I am currently working on reworking those actions and being more open because I do not want the actions of the few to define the many. It is a lot harder than it sounds, and demands an active mental, physical and emotional consciousness to counteract my pre-programmed response. Doing this "revamp" (which can in part be attributed to the ICD&I conference I attended -  here is the link for that post) helped me to realize that I needed to make that change and be open to my community again.

Accomplishments

1. Learning a new language
•  I think I have said this before, but let me say it again - ALBANIAN IS HARD/DIFFICULT/ANNOYING/ is a Culturally Entrenched Language. I still feel like I am fighting an uphill battle, with moments of clarity and great talking and other times I forget the basics. IT happens! To everyone, but I can navigate within a foreign language and country. Ashley, you're a #boss
2. PenPals
• When asked what was the highlight of school for me, besides finishing the school year (1 week and 3 days left!) I would say successfully facilitating a pen-pal exchange with my seventh graders and Girl Scouts in America. The joy letters and Girl Scout cookies bring is amazing, and the fact that I was able to be the common thread between two cultures, people and traditions is an amazing accomplishment. Lets be honest though, Girl Scout cookies = LIFE! so its not hard to see how that was a happy moment.
3. Exposure
• The hardest part of my service, but also the most rewarding. When you can change someones outlook on a group of people by just existing (GASP! I know it happens though) is such a beautiful thing and feeling, though also makes you aware of just how much work is left to create equity and equality in our world.
4. Diversity training
• Having the honor to attend the diversity training helped me not only in my outlook of my service, but I know assisted staff and other volunteers in learning how to deal with a variety of differences and issues in country.
5. PSN Member
• PSN is a volunteer support network run by volunteers to help assist each other through the ins and outs of our Peace Corps service. 
6. Finding happy Moments 
• A long overdue laugh, a hug, attending a powerful event, being invited somewhere. All of these things, though seemingly minuscule, can really have the most positive of effects on a volunteers outlook and mood. So making and being actively involved in these happy moments make life as a PCV that much more enjoyable.
7. Surviving
• I survived winter, summer, spring and fall in Kosovo! Through ups, downs and round-a-bouts WE (family, friends, supports, volunteers and staff) have made it a year together. So cheers to approximately 12 months down and 14 more months of the continuous growing experience that is my Peace Corps Service. Also thank you to everyone supporting me from home, those known and unknown and for reading my blog! Hope you get just a taste and are enjoying all the winding road with me.

Gezuar!

 - Ashley <3 

"It's not about what I can get, it's about what I can give." - Marie Forleo

Excurzion

On Saturday I went with my ninth graders (and some of my seventh graders) on a Class trip to various cities/sites in Kosovo to celebrate the end of their middle school career. I was so excited to attend this trip with "my kids" (I use quotations because people here have taken that to mean I birthed them instead of my love for the kids I teach - oops for the literal translation hahaha) and get this last adventure with them. I didn't realize until we were returning home just how much these young hearts have impacted me, and how much I really love my students. Despite it all, they definitely made my first year of Peace Corps service an true experience, but I couldn't have asked for a better class to go on this trip with! I hope they've been impacted by me just an ounce of how much they have made an impact on me.

Now that I've been a complete sap, for this excursion we went to Istog, Drini i Bardhe, Rugova, a restaurant in Gjakove, and Prizren. The trip overall was amazing fun, I got to learn new things about my students and see more of the beautiful country I call my home. So below find some pictures (and videos!) from our adventure and enjoy!

Some of my ninth graders and I

 My seventh grader and I

 My Host sister and I in Rugove

One of my coworkers and I

View from the Kalaja in Prizren, looking toward the city 

(those are my students standing on the wall)

 Viewing the Burimi in Istog

Nature's Beauty in Rugova

 Dancing outside Drini i Bardhe

Some of my Ninth grade girls and I

 My school's Director (Principal) enjoying the festivities in Prizren

Students and teachers dancing

 Teacher adn student dancing together in Prizren

Two of my ninth grade boys and I

 Another teacher, student and I

7th graders and I squinting in Prizren!

My students caught me sleeping (it happens)

 My boys.

More of my ninth graders  

Drini i Bardhe, Kosovo

 Posing in Rugova

 One of the views while driving in Rugova

 Waterfall in Rugova

 Selfie stick photo gone wrong in Prizren, with most of my ninth grade girls!

 

My students persuaded this couple to finish their break so we could get some dancing in, Albanian style - Prizren.