COS Conference, Trips and Tips

Back entrance to the Mosque

     Before my COS Conference, I along with a local counterpart, took a Cultural day trip to Tetova, Macedonia. Tetova seems to be fairly similar to places in Kosovo on sight, but here, according to my counterpart who attended school there, there is a lower literacy rate and many Kosovars attend university in the town. There are some sights to see in the city which include the Pasha Xhamia, the River which runs through the city, the Hamam as well as rows and rows of gold jewelers which line major boulevards. You also see more of a diverse group of people and notice the complexities of Macedonian/Albanian societies as Tetova is a majority Albanian city. We also went to a local Pizzeria which, in my opinion, was one of the best pizzas I have had in the Balkans, called Pizzeria Molino. Handmade, fresh ingredients and big portions, a pizza and soft drink will run you about 3 Euros. 

 _________________________________________________________________________________

Peace Corps Kosovo

     During your experience as a Peace Corps Volunteer you are given different trainings, and attend a few conference throughout your service. The culmination of these group convenings sis the COS or Close Of Service Conference. This is your last conference, as a cohort, where you receive information on procedures, processes, and what to expect for the remainder of your service as well as generalizations for your next steps post PC. 

 

Final group Roleplay 

     For those wondering what the process of COS consists of for us in Kosovo is as follows:

• Apply for COS Dates: In Mid-April we provided our names and our top 3 dates for COS to our DPT

• Our site was allowed 3 specific dates due to the fact of scheduling iwth medical - each country's process is different.
• there were 3 dates and a maximum of 11 people per day if the slots were over the number allowed a lottery occurred and those who didn't make those first slots were pushed to the next etc.
• After the announcement of COS dates forms were asked to be filled which were due no later than the COS Conference.

Slideshow of our two years in Kosova

We convened in Pristina, Kosovo for a 3 day conference which closed with a BBQ Luncheon at the US Ambassador's Residence.  Throughout the conference we talked about how to stay focused and finish out our service, how to start disconnecting from our lives here and say good-byes, as well as inform PCVs on resources and options post-service. One evening we had a PCV only "game night" where we played a crossword search matching clues with last names on random positive facts per volunteer; we did a bingo game on dates and places in Kosovo and finally an anonymous positive statement about another volunteer. The COS Conference offered more than just information. It was a (more than likely) final time for all of us to get together, as a whole, and socialize, support and enjoy what we have, what we've been through as well as prepare for what we will go through. One constant theme throughout the conference was that we are forever connected. No one will understand, support and realize what we've been through but us. The power of the bond between Peace Corps volunteers is unmatchable and often times misunderstood. Yet this bond will take us through life phases, through struggles and joyous moments - its a lifetime commitment. 

Stuck in the Hotel's Elevator after session 

___________________________________________________

    Once we finished our conference a small group of us got together to have a little outing doing something new and create one last experience together. We went and visited a local Kosovar Brewery (which is also very popular amongst volunteers) that was created and is run by an American. Sabaja Brewery is located right outside Pristina in Gracanice, Kosovo and though small in size offers great quality products. Having recently celebrated their 4 year anniversary we were delighted to have the opportunity to further celebrate with Alex, the brewery's founder. Through their company Alex and his wife are also making an impact on Kosovar society and bringing a little more of America to Kosovar society. Our tour lasted about 30 minutes and included a description of processes, sampling of various product as well as fun facts.

Alex and myself at the Brewery

Beers produced at Sabaja

The tour was free as well as the welcome tasting of either their IPA (Indian Pale Ale) or their Smoked Porter [ my personal favorite], all beers thereafter are 1 Euro each (this includes bottles to take and drafts)! Though most people filtered out within an hour or two after the tour a couple of us decided to stay a little longer and got to know "The Boss" better. Alex was interesting, funny, kind and a really dope guy, he's also from NY but I SWEAR I'm not biased. I highly recommend if you are in Kosovo for a visit you pop by his brewery (you need to make a call first as he is also working as a teacher) and enjoy an American's taste on Kosovo; and if you aren't able to visit the brewery find a place to enjoy his product. Below you will find some brewery links on social media.

Website: http://www.birrasabaja.com/
Facebook: www.facebook.com/SabajaCraftBrewery/

Less than 80 days left to go, these two years move fast.
Shihemi se Shpejti (See you soon)!

Oh, Sa të Ftohtë!

Winter in the Balkans always reminds me of the "pleasures" I used to enjoy during American winters. This winter has been very cold and winter break was extended for a week because temperatures were in the -20 to -35C  range and since schools are not well insulated and heated by wood, the ministry decided to close school. For me, that extra time was spent in a warm apartment in the capital with fellow volunteers admiring our journeys, cooking, watching an abundance of Netflix and relaxing.

This year I got to share a new experience with my mother by bringing her to both Paris, France and Kosovo. Sharing this experience with her revealed to me just how much I have learned, appreciate, realized and shared during my tenure thus far in Kosovo. It was AWESOME seeing her interact with my families and friends, teaching her Albanian, and introducing her to my life for the past 19 (at that time) months.
So here are some clips and pics from our winter break traveling Paris and around Kosovo. :)

After Christmas Mass at Nena Tereza Cathedral 

Volunteers and former staff 

Indian and Christmas Movies

Marie-Antoinette's Hamlet in Versaille

My mom and I on our way to Versaille!

Fog and the Eiffel Tower

In the Gardens at Versaille 

Chocolatier in Paris

The famed Hall of Mirrors in Versaille

The Palace of Versaille

Mom and a friend :)

Some friends of mine and my mom 

Family Discussions with my Host dad, brother and Mom

Lunch prepared by my Host Mom

"Where's the Stone Bridge?" - Visiting Prizren

The Stone Bridge - Prizren

Meg and I "Tour Guiding" through Prizren

Break for Chai Russi...

Snow storm on the way to Gjilan

Nafi, Mom and I waiting for the bus.

Mom, myself and my PST Host Family

Classic "Finger on The Louvre" Pic...

'Cause we're half way there.

There has been SO much going on, I've neglected you lovely readers of mine. I deeply apologize... SO lets start an update shall we?

We had our Mid Service Conference about 3 weeks ago. MSC or MST (country dependent) is when your cohort gathers for a conference on where you are thus far in your service. You have various topics of discussion and ours included:rules and expectations, starting to prepare for our return to America, to a training with our counterparts. Some perspectives I got out of this conference though were about personal growth and impact. As PCV's you tend to get "stuck" or acclimated to your role. The same could be said for one's life in general (after a certain point). You think, "this is what it will be" or "I am not going to change x,y,z because...". We should try to never be in that state of mind. There is always some way to innovate, to change your perspective or your surroundings. The overall idea is to Dream Bigger Than Your Circumstance! Granted this is easier said than done, but stay with me here.... Say for example you have a job. You are nice and cushy in your employment bubble, you have a routine everything is a-ok. But what if you were to pop your bubble, and see your vicinity without that wavy, bubble induced set of eyes; What would you see? Would you be proud of the work you were doing, would you want to do more? That is what you constantly need as a PCV (and as a human). There is always something more for you to do. Someone new you can reach, some connection that you can create that can change yours and others' lives. So I - as should you (this is a gentle nudging) have started to try to step outside of my bubble and do something uncomfortable for myself and to try and stretch myself more in my position.*rant done*

OK; Also we started school - YAY. The first month of school was busy and I was out for portions of it as well because of PC obligations. However, the first few days back, seeing "my kids" and how they had grown and (some) matured during the summer made me feel so excited. I am a bit of a sappy person and seeing them made me so sad because I have become a part of their matriculation in school and this is my last year seeing how they "grow into themselves" and being part of that growth. I have invested in these children and really want the best for them and their futures. I hope I can make a big impact on them this final year and that they know how much I truly do appreciate and value being invited into their lives and being part of their development. *sappy rant done* Also I have some new goals which I really hope will be accomplished - two in particular- so fingers crossed that I can accomplish them and that they will be received well. 

Another birthday abroad. Very simple this year, but filled with love. My kids, friends and family are awesome and definitely gave me the needed boost in love factor :)

This was shorter than expected (maybe I am losing my words - HA!) But hope you all enjoy this beautiful month of October and update you soon!
-Ashley 
 

 

Mansions, Pools and Privilege too

Alton Sterling. Philando Castile.

     These are two names of the 100's of black lives that have been killed in America by police in 2016 alone. These men and all those who have lost their lives to police brutality are more than hashtags. They are ALL worthy of more than a day(s) plus of a breaking news story. All of them, in their most basic form, are HUMANS. A living, breathing, feeling being; a person with a family, friends, loved ones who were and live on as more than a statistic of being shot down by police. At the core of the issue as well is one of them could have easily been ME.
     I am PRIVILEGED, and my privilege smacked me in the face on July 9th. As I read over Facebook post, news articles, tweets and messages between fellow volunteers of color, I became angry. Why was this happening again? Does NO ONE see our humanity, do they not understand that black lives are being ATTACKED and MURDERED on American streets for the whole world to see, here goes another case without a conviction. I wanted to get up and do something, let my voice be heard and my humanity to be seen, and in that moment my privilege smacked me, all 25 plus years of it. Who was I to be upset when there I was sitting in a foreign land, at a beautiful house, lounging by the pool. Me and my degree, my "great" upbringing, my world traveling. Who was I to be upset about anything?! Well here is the thing, despite all the experiences, education and "connections" I may have, I can easily be one encounter away from being a hashtag on someones timeline simply because of my melanated epidermis. Another volunteer and I had this conversation and the point we came to was the same as above, except for us we could be labeled a black returned peace corps volunteer killed by police, instead of black woman killed by police. Even with that we know that all aspects of our life would be investigated, and despite the fact that we served our country to promote peace and bridge gaps, the fact that we are serving in a majority Muslim country could be used against us, the fact that our neighborhoods in country are majority Muslim could be used to spin a story of "ISIS connections" or any other ridiculous comment to paint us in a negative light. But if we are the victims why would WE or whoever the victim is be investigated? Why does the person who is no longer living become subject to scrutiny, rather than the offending officer? What about their past, their family history, THEIR run in with the system or citizens? But this is what being black in America is like - never good enough and in some way deserving of whatever misfortune comes to you. So how do I explain to my host families, my friends what is it like to be Black in America? Conversely, how do I explain to my family and friends in America what its like to be Black in Eastern Europe? My current home, but a place where I am perceived with curiosity, misunderstanding and judged to be something other than what I am. A place where my character, behavior and experiences are not relegated based upon face to face interaction, but rather what they see on television, which is full of American programs, and portrays me as either someones "baby mama", a loud/crazy, neck rolling, attitude having woman, or someone who is promiscuous - but ultimately just my skin. Do you see the issue with that? The fact that a lot of interactions I have are based upon my hair or my skin, and sometimes people just can't get past that. They don't really want to know my experiences but want to understand why I am "different" and why I am here. But me just being isn't enough, it always has to be related to my blackness. Constantly stuck in a place where my epidermis is what defines me, my interactions my life.

     As a black woman, I live a very privileged life, however, I also live a life of having to constantly prove, explain and show myself not only "worthy" but also as being more than what I am portrayed to be. I am tired though. Tired of having to jump through so many hoops. There is a serious problem in American institutions as well as in the overall American psyche about what it means to be Black. Being Black to me is about having a unique history. Its about being innovative, progressive, family and community oriented, being able to grow and flourish from concrete. Its about wanting to break barriers and leave them behind, about being accepted and spreading love. My job as a PCV is more than whats stated in a manual or brochure. It is about breaking down stereotypes associated with me and showing people how to love treat, enjoy and respect one another (Though I am still working on a baby I know who after a year still gets scared when he sees me :-/ ). I don't want to be the "standard" for which all people of color are judged, but I do want to be the standard for which all people "like me" are respected.

     My privilege is sometimes burdensome, but in other moments it provides me with unique opportunities to meet people in a manner others don't have the ability to. I will continue to learn to wear my privilege proudly and will use it to make a change, even if it doesn't allow me to make differences where I want, a difference can be made. That keeps me going because others weren't afforded the opportunity to even acknowledge theirs, so for that I must continue work that is bigger than me.
So we don't forget here are some of their names: Sandra Bland, Tamir Rice, Eric Garner, Mike Brown and all those who the news cycle didn't acknowledge - Love.

 - Ashley

A Year in Kosovo!

On June 7, 2015 I arrived on Kosovar soil, and it has been a crazy, growing, exciting, interesting year. When I arrived in Kosovo, I would have never guessed that I would experience and participate in such a variety of things. Being here has definitely stretched me as a person, and provided me with new realizations, viewpoints, friends and perspectives. Add to the fact that our new group has finally arrived, I feel it important to list some growing points/accomplishments which have occurred thus far in my service.

Growing Points

1. Expect the Unexpected
• During my Training and my first year of service there were many events and happenings that were, and still are, out of my control. As someone who loves to be in control, I can be honest about it :) , adjusting to this Peace Corps lifestyle ha(s)d its hard moments however, there is beauty and strength that arises from not always being in control of things. I am not submitting the idea that its an easy transition, or an enjoyable one; rather I am saying it is one that shows your true character and causes you to pause and think about you, your reactions and your actions.
2. Learning a new Culture
• Being immersed in a new culture where you live with families is something beautiful and stressful. If you are a highly independent person this can cause you to feel stressed and annoyed sometimes however, those moments get outweighed by family gatherings, correctly done cultural moments, feeling included and many other things. Don't be dismayed if even a year and some change in you still commit cultural faux-pas because everything is a learning experience, Right? I say that to say, no matter how long or how much you think you know, unless born into these societies there will always be something to learn, and something new to experience. Just go along for the ride and ask for lots of forgiveness
3.  Becoming comfortable with standing out
• This point is something which I am still dealing with. As a minority in this country, I receive a lot of attention, especially unwanted attention. When I first started my service, everyday was a battle ground of emotions - majority negative- when it came to how people received and perceived me in this country. I am and have learned that the only thing I can control is my response and how I do or do not allow these people to effect my personal peace and sanity. Not everyone means it in a malicious manner, I have encountered those who have meant it that way, but most intent boils down to curiosity or ignorance. Curiosity can stem from my complexion, my hair, (as I have been told) my beauty, my gender, nationality and a variety of other factors. Other times it has been from the idea of what is portrayed on television is taken as fact/truth and I must react accordingly. It is hard to be perceived and defined and received by such a skewed outlook but that is part of the reason I decided to join the Peace Corps (though I didn't realize just how hard the role of "change agent" would be).
4. Lack of Understanding
• This extends beyond just HCN (host country national) to PCV (Peace Corps Volunteer). This includes staff, volunteers, friends and family stateside and so many people in-between. Lack of understanding goes for expressions, responses, culture, food, people, actions etc. The nuances which define each person individually and in the larger social/cultural context. You have to be willing to put biases, prejudices, rejections to the side to continuously strive for understanding and tolerance.
5. Being Open
• Personally, I still deal with this growth point because I, for some time during my service, had developed a shell towards the people in my host country because of the reception I received, I no longer wanted to be hurt or feel uncomfortable, so I developed a demeanor and standard reactions/practices to counter what I was experiencing. I am currently working on reworking those actions and being more open because I do not want the actions of the few to define the many. It is a lot harder than it sounds, and demands an active mental, physical and emotional consciousness to counteract my pre-programmed response. Doing this "revamp" (which can in part be attributed to the ICD&I conference I attended -  here is the link for that post) helped me to realize that I needed to make that change and be open to my community again.

Accomplishments

1. Learning a new language
•  I think I have said this before, but let me say it again - ALBANIAN IS HARD/DIFFICULT/ANNOYING/ is a Culturally Entrenched Language. I still feel like I am fighting an uphill battle, with moments of clarity and great talking and other times I forget the basics. IT happens! To everyone, but I can navigate within a foreign language and country. Ashley, you're a #boss
2. PenPals
• When asked what was the highlight of school for me, besides finishing the school year (1 week and 3 days left!) I would say successfully facilitating a pen-pal exchange with my seventh graders and Girl Scouts in America. The joy letters and Girl Scout cookies bring is amazing, and the fact that I was able to be the common thread between two cultures, people and traditions is an amazing accomplishment. Lets be honest though, Girl Scout cookies = LIFE! so its not hard to see how that was a happy moment.
3. Exposure
• The hardest part of my service, but also the most rewarding. When you can change someones outlook on a group of people by just existing (GASP! I know it happens though) is such a beautiful thing and feeling, though also makes you aware of just how much work is left to create equity and equality in our world.
4. Diversity training
• Having the honor to attend the diversity training helped me not only in my outlook of my service, but I know assisted staff and other volunteers in learning how to deal with a variety of differences and issues in country.
5. PSN Member
• PSN is a volunteer support network run by volunteers to help assist each other through the ins and outs of our Peace Corps service. 
6. Finding happy Moments 
• A long overdue laugh, a hug, attending a powerful event, being invited somewhere. All of these things, though seemingly minuscule, can really have the most positive of effects on a volunteers outlook and mood. So making and being actively involved in these happy moments make life as a PCV that much more enjoyable.
7. Surviving
• I survived winter, summer, spring and fall in Kosovo! Through ups, downs and round-a-bouts WE (family, friends, supports, volunteers and staff) have made it a year together. So cheers to approximately 12 months down and 14 more months of the continuous growing experience that is my Peace Corps Service. Also thank you to everyone supporting me from home, those known and unknown and for reading my blog! Hope you get just a taste and are enjoying all the winding road with me.

Gezuar!

 - Ashley <3 

"It's not about what I can get, it's about what I can give." - Marie Forleo

Excurzion

On Saturday I went with my ninth graders (and some of my seventh graders) on a Class trip to various cities/sites in Kosovo to celebrate the end of their middle school career. I was so excited to attend this trip with "my kids" (I use quotations because people here have taken that to mean I birthed them instead of my love for the kids I teach - oops for the literal translation hahaha) and get this last adventure with them. I didn't realize until we were returning home just how much these young hearts have impacted me, and how much I really love my students. Despite it all, they definitely made my first year of Peace Corps service an true experience, but I couldn't have asked for a better class to go on this trip with! I hope they've been impacted by me just an ounce of how much they have made an impact on me.

Now that I've been a complete sap, for this excursion we went to Istog, Drini i Bardhe, Rugova, a restaurant in Gjakove, and Prizren. The trip overall was amazing fun, I got to learn new things about my students and see more of the beautiful country I call my home. So below find some pictures (and videos!) from our adventure and enjoy!

Some of my ninth graders and I

 My seventh grader and I

 My Host sister and I in Rugove

One of my coworkers and I

View from the Kalaja in Prizren, looking toward the city 

(those are my students standing on the wall)

 Viewing the Burimi in Istog

Nature's Beauty in Rugova

 Dancing outside Drini i Bardhe

Some of my Ninth grade girls and I

 My school's Director (Principal) enjoying the festivities in Prizren

Students and teachers dancing

 Teacher adn student dancing together in Prizren

Two of my ninth grade boys and I

 Another teacher, student and I

7th graders and I squinting in Prizren!

My students caught me sleeping (it happens)

 My boys.

More of my ninth graders  

Drini i Bardhe, Kosovo

 Posing in Rugova

 One of the views while driving in Rugova

 Waterfall in Rugova

 Selfie stick photo gone wrong in Prizren, with most of my ninth grade girls!

 

My students persuaded this couple to finish their break so we could get some dancing in, Albanian style - Prizren.