Dreams of Kosovo: Pushim Fever

Having recently returned from my spring break I felt a strong desire to share my experiences and travel pictures. For break, I traveled to Thessaloniki, Greece and Belgrade, Serbia. Both locations offered something completely different and provided me with a small glimpse into the benefits of my Peace Corps experience thus far and a greater appreciation for living abroad.

Greece’s second largest city and so called Gastronomical capital, Thessaloniki is a university town with a rich multicultural and ethnic makeup. We arrived to Greece and were surprised by the look of the city. We imagined those pretty postcard pictures we saw online describing Thessaloniki (Thess as it is called among us volunteers) and were greeted with a mix between central and western European scenery. Many buildings, much graffiti and recognizable store brands greeted us after spending hours driving through plush (beautiful and CLEAN) green space. We both looked at each other a little confused suggesting we couldn’t be in the correct location, but we were. What greeted us was similar to what you would see in America before you enter a downtown area – the “less desirable” areas of a city. However once we walked further toward the city center the views changed and a bustling city full of cafes, lots of shopping (YAY) and beautiful people. Thess is not a stereotypical Greek city, it is more European in style the islands and areas further south, this is my guess, is where you will find that Greek experience. We stayed in a downtown apartment close to the sites and shopping areas. We spent the first day at the mall, saw a movie and sat a small music bar. Throughout the rest of our 4 days in Thess we indulged in sweets, seafood, Greek foods, lots of walking and enjoying the views, sounds and breeze that was Thessaloniki. It was very surprising in Greece that an overwhelming majority of people spoke English and quite well at that. Coming from a country where many do not it was surprising to expect English form various merchants, wait staff and people on the street.

While traveling into and out of Greece we saw a UNHCR refugee camp near the Greek border. Rows and rows of tents, and a big banner stating this was a refugee camp. The crisis going on in western Asian and North African countries has a true impact – on people. They aren’t just refugees, illegal immigrants, and displaced people. They are HUMANS! There were also HUMANS sleeping in a public park near the Belgrade bus station. It was heart breaking to see brown women, men and children stranded. Stuck in a state of unwavering not knowing what happens next and nowhere to go. So I urge everyone to not let these victims to become stigmatized in your mind as law-breaking, moral-less, resource hungry or even terrorists. They are everyday women children and men escaping a situation in which they have been targeted and are simply looking for peace and security. I plan on trying to do something to do my part in supporting my fellow brothers and sisters, as should you.

When we departed from Thessaloniki, we had a 12-hour day of travel to get to Belgrade, capital city of Serbia. We traveled from Thessaloniki, to Skopje – had a 1 hour layover, then Skopje to Nis, Serbia – switched buses and went from Nis to Belgrade. Because of border disputes with Serbia and their lack of recognition for Kosovo’s independence one cannot travel thru Kosovo to Serbia but must go around through Macedonia.

We spent two days in Belgrade, the first we spent just enjoying walking around and going to the Lake there where we just laid on the rocky “beach” and stood in the water – as it was too cold to enter. We also did a bar crawl which ended at a house bar which gave us a sample of the nightlife in Belgrade – it was packed on a Thursday night and people were ENTERING the space at 3am, when we were leaving. Belgrade is known in Europe to have one of the best nightlife experiences, especially in the summer, when we were told we need to return, to experience the boat clubs they have that will allow you to experience a Serbian Sunrise on the banks of the Danube or Sava river (both of which wind their way around the city) and where you won’t dock until 7am. The second day we did a free walking tour where we saw various sites around the city and were given an early morning shot of Rakia in traditional Balkan style. We also visited the Serbian /national Bank where you can take a few free look at the museum and have your picture taken and placed on Serbian Dinar (complimentary also). We ended our last day with McDonalds (Way to be American – but to our defense: 1- I find McDonalds abroad more delicious {I don’t eat them in the states} and 2- we have no chain fast food in Kosovo, only doners).

Somethings I found very interesting about Spring break were the politics still occurring between Serbs and Albanians. On one government building we saw signs referring to the Kosovo Liberation Army and western multi-state organizations and their dislike of them. We also got a small insight into the views Serbians have of Kosovo and the effects the conflict (or lack thereof) had on them. It was very interesting that on the free walking tour we attended, the guide was a displaced Serbian from Kosovo. Because of the acts occurring in Kosovo during the late nineties her family migrated from Kosovo to Belgrade and she spoke briefly on that experience. She did mention though that she would like to return and visit her former home where she still has family members. These few chance encounters have definitely further peaked my interest to returning to Belgrade and other Serbian cities to experience their culture, people and hear their stories. Other things learned were the appreciation I now have for knowing a language, even if basic, in Kosovo. It was frustrating not really knowing how to communicate to Greeks and Serbians in their native tongues and I felt bad not knowing even some greetings – BUT I now have that down. I feel one should know at least basic greetings in the native tongue for whatever destination you are visiting as a sign of respect and appreciation. Secondly, I am grateful and proud of the progress I have made in Albanian (think I’ve said this before – Oh well) . I don’t feel (as) lost or uncomfortable, but on the flipside not knowing the language made the yearning for anonymity to return. In Kosovo, as a PCV, I have no anonymity and I know what people around me are conversing about, usually me if I am in their presence in public, and it definitely takes a mental and emotional toll to always prepare yourself to mentally get aggravated with people constantly talking or inquiring about you yet not to you (Albanian culture isn’t direct like American culture). Also, I am a planner but I have learned how to go with the flow more (I’m sure my parents and friends will appreciate that when I return).

My travels have opened desires to further explore this melting pot called the Balkans and see what other adventures are out there for me to experience. I will definitely say the two cities I visited were never on my list, but now I have added even more locations to an ever growing travel list that would have never made it unless I would have been serving here in Kosovo so Cheers, Gezuar (Albnian), Ziveli (Serbian) and Stin yeia mas (Greek) to more travel destinations and learning experiences!

Greece Pictures