Sunday, June 25, 2017

Ashley, Please Stop Crying.

     
"Ashley, You're strong - Don't cry." These are the words one of my colleagues said to me while I stood in the middle of a classroom with about 20 students in front of me and 2 more colleagues off to the side. "I know" I responded; I said I wasn't going to cry...
     
     How do I put into words what the (approximate) 582 days with my "kids" have been like. Its been a rollercoaster. Extreme bouts of happiness, joy, sadness, defeat, uncertainty, excitement and appreciation in addition to indescribable emotions have been felt these past 2 years at site. I came into this situation with some teaching practice behind me in various capacities, yet nothing prepared me for the experience that I was about to embark on when I walked into school on September 1, 2015. However, even the brief moment of reflection from that moment, that I had when I walked into school on September 5, 2016 was drastically different. I knew my kids, I had a rhythm, my counterpart was amazing and I had the last year to grown from. Even with all the reflection and being present, nothing prepared me for June 23, 2017. 

     Personally, and honestly, I have had lots of personal uncertainty during my Peace Corps experience. "Was I meant to be here, was I being appreciated, was I making a positive impact, am I strong enough to endure this"? - were all questions that produced themselves throughout my service. Yet something kept me here. Through being simultaneously annoyed, mentally checked out at times and frustrated with the happenings of my Peace Corps life I remained dedicated and persistent in my task. It didn't take me long to realize why. My kids! My students. They were (so weird to put it in past tense) my driving force throughout my service. The smiles, hugs, those invisible lightbulbs when they actually understood something, the laughter - usually at me and my silliness, their questions and enthusiasm just to see and say hello to me. They were and are my why. 
I came to Peace Corps for my students. For those that would follow me home just to have a small conversation, or just to say they were (awkwardly) in my presence {You walk 10 ins home with up to 10 3-8 graders behind you just following you pa fjalet - without words- and you tell me how YOU feel}. 
For those students who never really believed in their English abilities, but now understand me when I speak and they can respond in a confident manner. The students who are just excited to get a "Hello.../ Good Morning/ see you tomorrow etc". Now don't be confused, this is not some rant to glorify myself and say how awesome I am. Far from it. I just realized and am accepting the role I played in helping another generation. Two years of misunderstanding and tears; laughter and high-fives and the occasional hug is what got me here. 

     So rewind it back to the last week of school. We were able to celebrate our School Day - which is a tradition of celebrating the schools founding date throughout schools in Kosovo- on June 20. Usually there is dancing, a short program and special guests. That day I saw the smiles of my students and how they just enjoyed and celebrated where they are. That moment truly touched me. Looking from the upstairs window, out into the courtyard while 200+ students danced, sang, took pictures, smiled and just enjoyed the place they are being educationally reared. No words can describe that feeling and the energy that pulsated throughout the school that day. Now, fast forward to Friday, I had been planning on doing something for the kids and I settled on letters- letting them know my hopes and dreams for them, as well as how much they impacted me in my time here, I felt was the best "gift" I could give them. The day finally came to distribute the letters and I don't know if the kids really understood what work went into the letters, or why - to me- they were so important. So I handed out the letters, let the kids talk with me and we took pictures.
 Then the time came for me to go and I gave each one who came a "final hug" and about half way through I just start crying. I wasn't expecting to. Yet two years of laughter, yelling and/or screaming, proud moments, high fives, awkward pauses, lack of understanding and so much more led me here. To "Good-bye". I wasn't prepared for the flood of emotions and memories which were saturating my thoughts while I battled to "stay present" and enjoy this moment with my kids. Yet, despite my attempt, I just let it go. I allowed the tears to flow. I tried to stop but something in me just said "no." 
Now, Kosovar culture isn't the most emotionally open, and my emotionally in-tune self with my bursts of excitement, or sadness and very evident displays of how I am feeling stick out like a sore thumb. However, to me, it was important for my kids to see my emotions. To know - THEY are the ones that caused this display of emotions for me. They impacted ME. I told them, I said I wouldn't cry, and its not that I am sad, I am just going to miss them. Even that explanation is completely wrong. Even trying, to write this blog causes me to want to delete it all and start from scratch. But words will never be able to effectively describe what these 2 years, five hundred and eighty plus days, emotions, letters and feelings mean. 

When I "imagined" my last day of school, this wasn't what I pictured. It would be fun, maybe some cake, laughs, music and hugs and pictures. It was pretty, it was possible, but it was a dream. You spend up to three months preparing yourself to integrate, learn and be part of a community (communities) but what about when you leave? This is the part they can't adequately prepare you for. Peace Corps does its best to get you ready, trained and culturally aware to serve in your host country; yet they can't prepare you on how to act, respond and experience when it is time to leave. You get a quick de-brief at your close of service, but how do you effectively start to sever ties, and close out relationships? You don't - or at least you can't. You do your best to prepare and then.... Well, then we will just see how it goes. Time for me to start figuring it out myself....


So until the next time, shihemi....
- Ashley

Sunday, May 14, 2017

COS Conference, Trips and Tips

Back entrance to the Mosque

     Before my COS Conference, I along with a local counterpart, took a Cultural day trip to Tetova, Macedonia. Tetova seems to be fairly similar to places in Kosovo on sight, but here, according to my counterpart who attended school there, there is a lower literacy rate and many Kosovars attend university in the town. There are some sights to see in the city which include the Pasha Xhamia, the River which runs through the city, the Hamam as well as rows and rows of gold jewelers which line major boulevards. You also see more of a diverse group of people and notice the complexities of Macedonian/Albanian societies as Tetova is a majority Albanian city. We also went to a local Pizzeria which, in my opinion, was one of the best pizzas I have had in the Balkans, called Pizzeria Molino. Handmade, fresh ingredients and big portions, a pizza and soft drink will run you about 3 Euros. 

 _________________________________________________________________________________

Peace Corps Kosovo

     During your experience as a Peace Corps Volunteer you are given different trainings, and attend a few conference throughout your service. The culmination of these group convenings sis the COS or Close Of Service Conference. This is your last conference, as a cohort, where you receive information on procedures, processes, and what to expect for the remainder of your service as well as generalizations for your next steps post PC. 
 
Final group Roleplay 
     For those wondering what the process of COS consists of for us in Kosovo is as follows:

  • Apply for COS Dates: In Mid-April we provided our names and our top 3 dates for COS to our DPT
    • Our site was allowed 3 specific dates due to the fact of scheduling iwth medical - each country's process is different.
    • there were 3 dates and a maximum of 11 people per day if the slots were over the number allowed a lottery occurred and those who didn't make those first slots were pushed to the next etc.
    • After the announcement of COS dates forms were asked to be filled which were due no later than the COS Conference.

Slideshow of our two years in Kosova
We convened in Pristina, Kosovo for a 3 day conference which closed with a BBQ Luncheon at the US Ambassador's Residence.  Throughout the conference we talked about how to stay focused and finish out our service, how to start disconnecting from our lives here and say good-byes, as well as inform PCVs on resources and options post-service. One evening we had a PCV only "game night" where we played a crossword search matching clues with last names on random positive facts per volunteer; we did a bingo game on dates and places in Kosovo and finally an anonymous positive statement about another volunteer. The COS Conference offered more than just information. It was a (more than likely) final time for all of us to get together, as a whole, and socialize, support and enjoy what we have, what we've been through as well as prepare for what we will go through. One constant theme throughout the conference was that we are forever connected. No one will understand, support and realize what we've been through but us. The power of the bond between Peace Corps volunteers is unmatchable and often times misunderstood. Yet this bond will take us through life phases, through struggles and joyous moments - its a lifetime commitment. 

Stuck in the Hotel's Elevator after session 
___________________________________________________
    Once we finished our conference a small group of us got together to have a little outing doing something new and create one last experience together. We went and visited a local Kosovar Brewery (which is also very popular amongst volunteers) that was created and is run by an American. Sabaja Brewery is located right outside Pristina in Gracanice, Kosovo and though small in size offers great quality products. Having recently celebrated their 4 year anniversary we were delighted to have the opportunity to further celebrate with Alex, the brewery's founder. Through their company Alex and his wife are also making an impact on Kosovar society and bringing a little more of America to Kosovar society. Our tour lasted about 30 minutes and included a description of processes, sampling of various product as well as fun facts.
Alex and myself at the Brewery

Beers produced at Sabaja
The tour was free as well as the welcome tasting of either their IPA (Indian Pale Ale) or their Smoked Porter [ my personal favorite], all beers thereafter are 1 Euro each (this includes bottles to take and drafts)! Though most people filtered out within an hour or two after the tour a couple of us decided to stay a little longer and got to know "The Boss" better. Alex was interesting, funny, kind and a really dope guy, he's also from NY but I SWEAR I'm not biased. I highly recommend if you are in Kosovo for a visit you pop by his brewery (you need to make a call first as he is also working as a teacher) and enjoy an American's taste on Kosovo; and if you aren't able to visit the brewery find a place to enjoy his product. Below you will find some brewery links on social media.

Website: http://www.birrasabaja.com/
Facebookwww.facebook.com/SabajaCraftBrewery/

Less than 80 days left to go, these two years move fast.
Shihemi se Shpejti (See you soon)!

Saturday, April 22, 2017

Spring Break, Concerts and Travel Binging

     C'kemi (What's up) All? Been a couple of months since I have updated and informed you all of the ins-and-outs of Kosovo life. In all honesty you aren't missing much, things tend to be the same from day-to-day: School and teaching, home for lunch, do some work or visit a host family member, snack time then lay it down for the night repeated over, and over again. There have been some fun bursts of energy though so lets get detailed!

    So in Mid February I, along with another volunteer, took a much needed mid-winter break to visit Berlin, Germany for a weekend. Trying to do a capital city in less than 48 hours can seem daunting as well as exciting. I do know that Berlin is definitely a city to see, and my almost 36 hours there offered something intriguing. Its not a quick dive into like many other cities can be, but moreso like an onion city - you have to pull it back layer by layer (hope you liked that Shrek reference 😃) Being in Berlin offered a little taste of something culturally similar to America at a time when being in Kosovo, and in all that cold 💨, was becoming increasingly hard. So thanks Berlin and hopefully until next time!

Berlin Victory Column

Inside the Bundestag roof overlooking Parliament rooms

 

German Flag from atop the Bundestag

War in central Berlin which survived WW2 attacks

Memorial near a church for recent attacks in Berlin

Bradenburg Gate in Berlin
Open air Holocaust Memorial 
Flying back into Kosovo

     After that wonderful weekend in Berlin, a few weeks later I was invited to Vushtrri, a large town about 30 mins. from Pristina to visit and learn some cool cultural facts. With the help of a local friend our Host volunteer (who lives in the town) showed us around with some nice spots to eat, as well as historical sites. Later that night we ended up at the Mitrovice School of Rock's Concert where students perform original sets and the event is attended by both Serbian and Albanian communities which indirectly promotes positive coexisting and social interactions and bonding over a common interest - Music. The students who performed were AWESOME and it is definitely an experience I won't forget. 

100 year old house in the center of town
Austro-Hungarian architecture in Vushtrri


Civilian war memorial near the center of town

Old Hamam which was recently renovated
Ready for the Concert!


  
Student Performance 
Another Group rocking the mic
 











     The first week of April, with our 3-month, no foreign travel date approaching, two of my close friends and I went on a 2 day, 1 night bus tour of Macedonia and Albania. We visited towns and villages around Lake Ohrid which included - Ohrid, St. Naum, Struga, and we stayed in a village outside of Pogradec. In Kosovo there are bus tour groups which offer weekend getaway packages to Kosovars to neighboring countries that don't have visa requirements (Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro). So we packed our bags and headed out early Saturday morning for Pristina to begin our weekend of hop-on hop-off'ing. Struga, Macedonia offered a different view, and being the Peace Corps Volunteers we are, we were concerned about who had the pleasure of calling that beautiful lakeside town with so much potential their home (Albania and Macedonia also host Peace Corps Volunteers 😁), After walking around, making silly videos, taking pictures in front of an emoji wall and having the obligatory coffee, we hopped back onto our bus and onto our hotel in Tushemisht. The second day was jam packed where we went to Drilon Park, St. Naum, and finally Ohrid, before going on to Pristina. I'm so appreciative that we were able to do this trip as it provided views and locations I didnt think I would be able to see before my (upcoming) departure from Kosovo. 

Emoji a friend

The Beautiful Lake Ohrid as my background

Inspiring Graffiti Art - Struga

< Lake Ohrid 
          
Struga - Black Drini River
-Signs - 

Swans in Drilon Park

Drilon Park 

Entrance to St. Naum

Entrance to church ar St. Naum
View of the Church


My girls and I

St. Naum

Ohrid

Statue in Ohrid

Flying our Shqiponjë

Friends and Graffiti 

     PHEW ok, last Travel - SPRING BREAK! For Spring Break allowed me to welcome Bulgaria as country 22! (YAY!) Bulgaria was a highly suggested, but never considered destination. We spent 3 full days in Sofia, including a day trip to Plovdiv - which was actually only spent at the mall because ya know - we were THOSE girls. Despite our mall filled attraction, Bulgaria offered a taste of something I wasn't expecting - insane beauty, great shopping, intriguing history, and loads. of. food.I definitely would recommend visiting Bulgaria to anyone traveling Eastern Europe and it is on my list of places to further explore :)

    
Entrance to the Synagogue

   
Largest Synagogue in SE Europe

Inside Sofia Central Market

Sofia Central Market 

Serdica Ancient Roman city beneath Sofia

buildings and advertisements

Selling local Handicraft

Socialist Party HQ

Statue outside the socialist Party HQ

Bull in the Financial District

Beautiful church we ran across


National Park in the center of Plovdiv

Rock structure in the National Park

  

My travel buddies
Crest of Sofia
                                         















Hope you all enjoyed my travel journeys over the past weeks, COS Conference is coming up so Wish me LUCK!