EPOPEJA

March 5-7, days in the Kosovar Albanian community that will forever be memorialized. During these dates in 1998, the Jashari (Yuh-Shar-E) family compound was riddled with bullets, bombs and grenades. Hamez and Adem Jashari, UÇK (Kosovo Liberation Army) commanders in the Drenica region were targeted, and along with them, 53 family members and four guests were killed in a Serbian military attack. In addition to the Jashari family, those trying to flee from houses were also killed by Serbian snipers. There was one survivor of the attack, Hamez Jashari’s eight year old daughter who hid under her mother’s bread making table during the 2 day siege on her family's compound. This attack is one of the catalyst for the US and international response against the Yugoslav government in Kosovo. Here are some photos previously posted, of the Jashari compound and the memorial and museum.

Museum

Graves of the deceased

The homes most Jashari's were killed in

View of the destruction done by Serbian forces



On March 5^th I joined my family, as well as hundreds of others, who made a “pilgrimage” to the memorial to pay their respects and honor those who perished in the attacks. We viewed the museum which contained artifacts form the houses that were attacked, as well as personal items of the Jashari brothers. Inside of the museum there is a banner with the names, photos and dates of life of those women, men and children who were killed. On March 7^th my village, as well as the neighboring town celebrated this moment in history known as Epopeja.

 

The above banner could be found all around my surrounding community in the days leading up to the memorial date. The meaning of - Epopeja e Ushtrise Clirimtare te Kosoves is - The Epic Liberation Army of Kosova. On March 7^th, we had a lighting ceremony at the memorial where Kosovar Military personnel first set for to a large bonfire, and lit “torches” as they walked from the uppermost section of the memorial and from the bombed compound to the resting place of the deceased, lighting torches for all the deceased along the way. The lighting of the bonfire was to signify to those in the neighboring town, where a square is dedicated to Adem Jashari to begin their celebrations, which I was unable to attend this year, but watched the celebratory concert after returning home.

I have attached a video from the local TV Station where they show the entire procession, as well as the concert which began after. The procession starts at 3:30, and you also can continue watching to see popular Albanian entertainers and traditional folk dances as well.

There is little to be found on Kosovo, its history, or this particular event, however I have provided this link to give you an insight.

http://www.bosnia.org.uk/news/news_body.cfm?newsid=2842

Despite the lack of international knowledge of this event, the people, legacies and memories of this day as well as the mental and social impact it has had on my community is ever present and thought of. Trying to insert yourself into this community can be (and is) difficult, but I have a greater appreciation for my community and their strength after experiencing this event with them first-hand.

~ Ashley

Hajde ne Shkolle! (Come on to School!)

It has been a hectic couple of weeks here in Kosovo and they're only going to get busier (Hello holiday and idea season). All the volunteers are being productive and we are doing great things in this evolving country. I have been wanting to do a new post, and have had a variety of ideas but decided to focus on my experience thus far in the Kosovar School System.
     Going into my 2nd month of school there are so many differences that I see in my local community's school than I experienced back in the states. For one the school day. In my village we only have one schedule - 40 minute classes beginning at 8:50am and ending at 1:50pm (but it is usually more like 1:45pm). Most other schools usually have a morning and an afternoon shift because there isn't enough room for all the kids to attend at the same time (each class already usually houses anywhere from 25-35 students in my experience). The schools do not have a cafeteria in them, everyone eats at home, and there is a small market close to the school for the students to grab a snack during their 15 minute break halfway through the school day. There is no front office, students, teachers, parents, all go in and out freely, without much, if any, supervision. It is a much more relaxed setup than in 'The States. I have experienced students leaving their 2nd period in order to go "have a girls day" in the nearby town, walking into an empty classroom because students decided they wanted to visit a sick friend during the school day and great future lawyers who will try to bargain with a teacher to give them a 5 (an A) and they will participate more, otherwise they won't and will take the 4 (insert side-eye). These of course are just some of the most drastic things I have dealt with. For the most part the students are similar to the U.S. - the younger they are, the more enthusiastic haha! When it comes to respect students refer to their teachers as "Teacher/Mesues/Arsimtare". You won't find a Mr. so and so or Mrs./Ms. anywhere. Anytime an adult enters the room or opens a door, or a student is picked to speak you will see young bodies standing to greet and speak. Personally, I still tell my students to sit down as soon as I get in the room - it weirds me out seeing them standing for me, almost like I am the Commander-in-Chief or something HAHA! So one random fact that was told to me by a few teachers in Kosovo, they think the USA has 52 states, like the books even say so (insert big eyed emoji here) so I spent one free period going through my geography teachers book in my school to see if I could help if there were any "typos" which I didn't find - yet. When it comes to English, a lot of students \have difficulty because of the teaching style, so I  and my counterpart have taken a different approach to what the norm was for our students. As of right now, Jeopardy is a HUGHE hit and so is Pictionary. My biggest struggle is that after school all students just go home. There aren't any after school programs in my village for them to continue to foster their relationships and grow new skill sets etc.
     The school system here, in my village, we do not have starter schools (think Pre-K and Nursery). The students start at Kindergarten or 1st grade, and stay with the same group of students their entire primary career (for example whoever is in your homeroom is who you have every class with for the next 10 years in that school). Also, students do not change classrooms, teachers do - so much for worrying about classroom decorations ha!. Also there aren't any Special education, honors or advanced classes in the Primary school. This was something that showed me just how hard it is to be a teacher here because if you are a student here you can easily be left behind or bored if you have a learning issue or get bored in class because the coursework is too easy. Working with multi-level classrooms is very interesting and stressful at the same time and you often wonder how much students really understand and retain throughout the day.
   I would love to continue this post but that is all I can think of for now, it is late in Kosovo and I have a full day at work tomorrow, until next time Naten e Mire!

Eurocreme*

*DISCLAIMER* These views are MY OWN, as I have experienced them personally and am sharing my perspectives and experiences.

I have written a whole post and realized I needed to start over. When I write my blog I usually just let it flow, but I really want this to come out the right way and to be a point of conversation - if you feel it necessary - and to just enlighten. So let me begin again by starting with this. I love being a Black Woman. (yup, we are going "There" in this post, so if you are (already) uncomfortable you can "leave" here.... {Buh-bye stop by my next post though ;) }

For those that stayed, Thank you!

When I applied and accepted my invitation for the Peace Corps I knew that my ethnicity would be an "issue" or topic of discussion. However I did not realize that it would make me feel as if my entire service is a direct result of it. My first evening in country I was called a Nigger. Yup, just like that. Actually no, what exactly was said to me was "I love Nigger". I had prepped myself that the possibility may occur but not on my first evening in country. When I heard the statement, I didn't hear the "I love" phrase said to me, I heard NIGGER! I literally stopped in my tracks and it felt like every one of my ancestors who live within me cried out from the pain and humiliation they endured to progress for me. I then felt like someone punched me in the face with brass knuckles. My heart literally ached, my mind was racing everywhere, what had I done, I was walking down the street laughing with friends, did I offend someone, was it because they said it "for fun", was it a source of entertainment? This plus other things (insert mental flashes - literally- of Mammy, blackface and jezebel images going through my mind) tormented me everytime I was in that city, and still do. Knowing that I am fair game to be talked and gossiped about, seen as a circus animal or source of entertainment and to just be talked about, makes me want to crawl into a little hole for the next two years at times. Add on the fact that I have natural hair which provides people even more "excuses" to point and laugh and talk about me, its just like Oh, great! Even in family settings I have been talked about by host family members who sat directly next to me laughing, whispering and pointing to my face, my hair, ME. Sounds about maddening doesn't it. To deal with this, along with stares, being followed in stores and every time you go somewhere. That people feel it necessary, and don't see a problem with, yelling things at me and making noises as I walk down the street. So why? Why deal with such things. Well for one, despite how uncomfortable I may feel, I may in some small way be breaking down a barrier(s). I expose people to something other than themselves. I get to teach about my history as a Black-American and my experience (that's a new thing considering we live in a post-racial society and no one thinks we have a race problem.. OK). People want to know EVERYTHING, and they don't always know what we consider "basic knowledge". For example, I taught my host cousin about Nelson Mandela. THE Nelson Mandela, she had never heard of him. We watched a movie on him and I gave background, and at the end was told, this was one of the best movies ever seen, that he was a great man. BREAKTHROUGH. I get to show the cultural diversity within America, that no I don't have to be from Africa to be black. I also get to see the effects of my culture abroad. I get to experience and see first hand perceptions that are held by the outside consumers of American culture.

It is interesting how many in Kosovo pride themselves on the fact that Kosovo is so inclusive and enjoys a multi-ethnic, multi-religious society. Yet I have some of the same experiences as Roma or darker men, women and children in Kosovo. We are marginalized, and though I am an American and that does have some benefit, I do not get the same respect as my fellow volunteers because of my skin. For example during a discussion with a Host country national I was told I was never called the "N" word here and must have been mistaken because Americans are held in high-esteem in Kosovo. That I was never followed in a store because someone thought I was going to steal something, they were just curious, however I was with 7 other Americans and none of them were followed or had anyone "tend" to them while shopping. Racism is still alive and well in Europe and many other places around the world. People just believe, because they have very homogenized societies, that they are inclusive and accepting because of "religious tolerance" which still isn't true because you are separated into communities, areas and those who are marginalized do their best to "stay away" from the majority of society. How people think it is a problem when you, a stranger, walks up to me asking to take a picture (if they even ask) and get an attitude when I respond "No." My blackness does not provide you the opportunity to treat me like your local circus attraction. My blackness doesn't mean that I am any less intelligent or mentally capable to understand and do things. My blackness DOES allow for me to be a strong, motivated, giving and appreciative human being who is aware of the disparities in the world to those with more melanin and say, I want to do something that facilitates awareness and promotes diversity in the face of all the negativity and ignorance that will be a reaction to my action. I want to be here, and I want to share my stories, facilitate cultural exchange, but sometimes people here make it really hard! But at the end of the day, just my presence makes a difference. I am so lucky for that. So I will continue to walk with my kinky hair, melanin-on-fleek (I said it), one of the tallest people on the street head held high, and allow just my presence to be a change agent. I hope there comes a point when people will understand that its rude and ignorant to treat people as a side show attraction, but if not, I will be here to help with the process because the only thing more constant than change, is change!

*Eurocreme is one of the many terms used to describe someone of color: Eurocreme is the chocolate filling put in a croissant by the way.

But Why Travel?...

Almost a month at site, I can not believe it! I have a few things on my mind/heart to blog about but I will start with this one and hopefully get to the others at sometime this week.

(Oh and make sure you click on the hyperlinks, I think you will gain more understanding)

When I was preparing to start my Peace Corps Service and still back in the US, one of the most common questions I would receive was "Why can't you stay in the states and do the same thing?" It seemed to me that everyone was scared for me to be abroad, or just lacked the understanding of why I had to do this MY way. Most suggested I just stay in the US and do AmeriCorps, now this isn't to discredit AmeriCorps in anyway, but why stay in my comfort zone; why should I stifle myself and my ambitions to suit the "needs" or wants of others? I've been quiet independent and have always been slightly "against the grain", so going abroad just made sense personally. I say that to get to this point. When I came to Kosovo there were many things I was naïve towards and travel was one of them. I know you are asking how can one be naïve to traveling, but here is how. Kosovo is the newest state in Europe, the second newest country in the world! The route to independence for this tiny country (approximately the size of Delaware - if I previously said Connecticut that's traveling size via public transport) has been very rocky and filled with controversy and a political tug of war. Though many have recognized Kosovo's sovereignty, many states have not (cue in Russia and Serbia, to name two, hence the tug of war) and that has created a sort of dichotomy for Kosovo. It is basically a semi state. In terms of passport acceptance it is limited to the surrounding area essentially (Montenegro, Macedonia, Serbia and Good Ol' Albania {cues Kuq e Zi}). Traveling to western nations such as Germany, Switzerland or even the US is extremely difficult and visas are hard to come by. So here I am a lucky American Girl who has the world as her oyster and can travel at will, yet the majority of people I have talked to here haven't even traveled around within country, yet alone TRY to travel internationally. ( you can gasp now). I know way too many people who are American and refuse to leave their little state and it annoys me to the moon and back. Now I am in Kosovo and people only dream of going to visit a loved one in Germany or even Italy but because of visas and other barriers (you need to have a job - hard with 30% unemployment- be in school, have a sponsor - I think - amongst other qualifications) can not and that American is back home just squandering their opportunity and talking about their "always bored" (side eye emoji here). They wont even leave their immediate surrounding area and see what else their own STATE has to offer - talk about laziness at its finest (yup I said it!) It is amazing to see that so many host country nationals haven't even been to some of the places I have been to in Kosovo (there are only about  6 major cities in the whole country, and none take more than 4 hours by bus from ANYWHERE in the country) and its cheap (by American standards), approximately 2-5 euros each way to get their via public transport. In Kosovo that is a possibly taxing amount of money to pay for a day trip due to the fact that many families, which usually consist of 5+ people, only have one source of income and that may be as low as 400 euros a month! If it isn't within probably a 20 minute drive, many haven't been, and don't get me started on not even leaving for school! So I treasure even the opportunity to travel within this country because so many do not have the opportunity to do even that! Being here has opened my eyes to so much and I am immensely appreciative for all that I do have, because someone else doesn't have it and dreams of the days and the times when they possibly will.

So yes, before coming to Kosovo I was very naïve, naïve about many things, but being here has broadened my horizons to just how fortunate I am to be an American. Not to say America is in anyway perfect or the best, but when I look at that ever growing list of places to go and I don't have to second guess being able to visit, for that I will forever be grateful. Children don't get to choose their lifestyle, but they can choose their path, and expanding the minds of children here to the opportunities that ARE afforded to them is a blessing in itself... So until my next rant-oops blog.. Appreciate it all, and embrace even the bad because your bad is someone else's daydream...

So travel far now ya' hear!
- Ashley

Urime! I'm a Volunteer!

     Urime (congratulations) to me and my fellow volunteers! On Saturday, August 22 myself, along with 35 other passionate individuals became the latest group to swear-in as Peace Corps Volunteers, and the SECOND generation of volunteers in the country EVER! The whole day of swearing-in was a HUGE whirlwind. I got about around 5, we had to be at the xhamija (mosque) by 6 to catch the bus tt Prishtina. My host mom made me some coffee and insisted that I "haida, ulu, pi pi" (come here, sit down, drink drink) though I was running shume vone (very late)! I managed to take a couple sips while she awoke my host siblings so they could say their goodbyes to me and I could get dropped off. My host sister (who I am closest to) dropped me and my two, 51+ lbs of luggage (EACH) off along with her younger brother. Saying goodbye to them I thought would be the hardest thing but I took it like a champ and didn't cry (though every emotion in me wanted to - I did shed a couple tears seeing my host parents the last time on the bus though after the ceremony :/ ). We were whisked away to pick up the other volunteers and headed to Prishtina to get a debrief of the ceremony and congrats from various members of the Peace Corps staff, in addition to taking a PLETHORA of pictures and selfies. The ceremony itself wasn't too long, and was attended by PC Staff, Madame President Jajahga and several Ministers, as well as our irreplaceable family members from PST. The ceremony and reception were extremely quick and next thing I knew I was whisked to the bus station promptly after to begin my new life over 3 hours away in another part of the country.

Language Group aka H-Town Crew

My LCFs and I

PCV Wendy and I with our PST Families

Madame President and I with my host mom

Host Prinderit!

 

     My new host family picked me up from the bus station and I was very excited to see them, though the bus ride wasn't too long, sitting there looking at the change in landscape and thinking of the family and friends I was "leaving behind" (that's how it really feels) was really toying with my emotions and I needed a good break from it. When you join PC knowing you have two host families (at least you do when you serve in Kosovo) you don't think about the emotional and sometimes spiritual connections you make with these families. These families take in a complete stranger, spend two months with them, introducing them to culture, people, traditions and next thing you know those months have passed and that woman you awkwardly greeted in your first interaction, trying to figure out what you should call her, has become a second mother to you and you couldn't imagine your life without her or the family. I am so grateful for the inclusive and mutually excited family I have now come to join in a quaint village in northern Kosovo. My new host family consists of My host parents, a 14 year old sister and 17 year old brother. My host parents are very nice, love to laugh and make jokes and are so eager to get to know ME. My host siblings are your typical teenagers, he is obsessed with computer games, his phone and soccer, she loves Youtube, all things girly and Fashion. Oh and did I mention almost everyone speaks English (VERY uncommon here in Kosovo)! I have a huge extended family as my host father is one of 7 and a few of the family members live all within a 5 minute walk (if that far). The others are part of the Diaspora and live in Western European countries. OH! and lets not forget Gjyshi and Gjyshia who live next door... (that's Grandpa and Grandma for you English speakers ;)

 

     My new village is extremely quaint and small. I would estimate about 500 families live here and it consists of a mosque, two markets - one on either end of the village) and a school which is close to where I live. I truly am living the rural life, there are no street lights so when its dark... its DARK - like back of your eyelids with the lights off dark, and its EXTREMELY beautiful and picturesque. In the mornings I love to sit on the porch and just look out at the hills and the mountains with the varying heights and colors all around... Its so beautiful and quiet, which means winter will be HARD (but we will deal with that and the post that is SURE to ensue from the winter weather later)!



 

View of the mountains from my walk

Some homes in my village

View of the sunset and the Mosque millet from my porch

Another view of rolling hills on my walk

Even the clouds make it beautiful (I have high altitude - look how low the clouds are!)

     It is so unbelievable to think this is my life now. That of a city girl that's become a "country girl" who is teaching abroad and immersed in a new culture with new people! Peace Corps they say will be the "toughest job you'll ever love" and is very unique. Well I am excited to love my new position teaching students English and all the experiences that are to ensue. We have volunteers spread out around Kosova and in everything from cities to rural villages. It will be a different experience for all of us, and we will have those hard days, but we will also have those moments of triumph and THAT is what matters most. As long as you find the good in everyday, no matter how hard, you're doing something right. So I will enjoy my "relaxation and sometimes boredom" of this week as I await the start of my first school year in Kosovo. Cheers and Good Luck to the official start of my two years in Kosovo, may it be filled with growth, love and smiles galore! GEZUAR!!

View from my kitchen window ;)