Urime! I'm a Volunteer!

     Urime (congratulations) to me and my fellow volunteers! On Saturday, August 22 myself, along with 35 other passionate individuals became the latest group to swear-in as Peace Corps Volunteers, and the SECOND generation of volunteers in the country EVER! The whole day of swearing-in was a HUGE whirlwind. I got about around 5, we had to be at the xhamija (mosque) by 6 to catch the bus tt Prishtina. My host mom made me some coffee and insisted that I "haida, ulu, pi pi" (come here, sit down, drink drink) though I was running shume vone (very late)! I managed to take a couple sips while she awoke my host siblings so they could say their goodbyes to me and I could get dropped off. My host sister (who I am closest to) dropped me and my two, 51+ lbs of luggage (EACH) off along with her younger brother. Saying goodbye to them I thought would be the hardest thing but I took it like a champ and didn't cry (though every emotion in me wanted to - I did shed a couple tears seeing my host parents the last time on the bus though after the ceremony :/ ). We were whisked away to pick up the other volunteers and headed to Prishtina to get a debrief of the ceremony and congrats from various members of the Peace Corps staff, in addition to taking a PLETHORA of pictures and selfies. The ceremony itself wasn't too long, and was attended by PC Staff, Madame President Jajahga and several Ministers, as well as our irreplaceable family members from PST. The ceremony and reception were extremely quick and next thing I knew I was whisked to the bus station promptly after to begin my new life over 3 hours away in another part of the country.

Language Group aka H-Town Crew

My LCFs and I

PCV Wendy and I with our PST Families

Madame President and I with my host mom

Host Prinderit!

 

     My new host family picked me up from the bus station and I was very excited to see them, though the bus ride wasn't too long, sitting there looking at the change in landscape and thinking of the family and friends I was "leaving behind" (that's how it really feels) was really toying with my emotions and I needed a good break from it. When you join PC knowing you have two host families (at least you do when you serve in Kosovo) you don't think about the emotional and sometimes spiritual connections you make with these families. These families take in a complete stranger, spend two months with them, introducing them to culture, people, traditions and next thing you know those months have passed and that woman you awkwardly greeted in your first interaction, trying to figure out what you should call her, has become a second mother to you and you couldn't imagine your life without her or the family. I am so grateful for the inclusive and mutually excited family I have now come to join in a quaint village in northern Kosovo. My new host family consists of My host parents, a 14 year old sister and 17 year old brother. My host parents are very nice, love to laugh and make jokes and are so eager to get to know ME. My host siblings are your typical teenagers, he is obsessed with computer games, his phone and soccer, she loves Youtube, all things girly and Fashion. Oh and did I mention almost everyone speaks English (VERY uncommon here in Kosovo)! I have a huge extended family as my host father is one of 7 and a few of the family members live all within a 5 minute walk (if that far). The others are part of the Diaspora and live in Western European countries. OH! and lets not forget Gjyshi and Gjyshia who live next door... (that's Grandpa and Grandma for you English speakers ;)

 

     My new village is extremely quaint and small. I would estimate about 500 families live here and it consists of a mosque, two markets - one on either end of the village) and a school which is close to where I live. I truly am living the rural life, there are no street lights so when its dark... its DARK - like back of your eyelids with the lights off dark, and its EXTREMELY beautiful and picturesque. In the mornings I love to sit on the porch and just look out at the hills and the mountains with the varying heights and colors all around... Its so beautiful and quiet, which means winter will be HARD (but we will deal with that and the post that is SURE to ensue from the winter weather later)!



 

View of the mountains from my walk

Some homes in my village

View of the sunset and the Mosque millet from my porch

Another view of rolling hills on my walk

Even the clouds make it beautiful (I have high altitude - look how low the clouds are!)

     It is so unbelievable to think this is my life now. That of a city girl that's become a "country girl" who is teaching abroad and immersed in a new culture with new people! Peace Corps they say will be the "toughest job you'll ever love" and is very unique. Well I am excited to love my new position teaching students English and all the experiences that are to ensue. We have volunteers spread out around Kosova and in everything from cities to rural villages. It will be a different experience for all of us, and we will have those hard days, but we will also have those moments of triumph and THAT is what matters most. As long as you find the good in everyday, no matter how hard, you're doing something right. So I will enjoy my "relaxation and sometimes boredom" of this week as I await the start of my first school year in Kosovo. Cheers and Good Luck to the official start of my two years in Kosovo, may it be filled with growth, love and smiles galore! GEZUAR!!

View from my kitchen window ;)

Music, Honking and Kanagjegj things...

It is Wedding Season in Kosova!

Unlike American Wedding season, there is SO much going on in Kosovo during wedding season, and the sights, LOTS of sounds and knowledge of what's going on makes it also that much more exciting. So lets start with a rundown from Proposal to walking down that aisle of what I know and have seen thus far.

Engagement.
     When a woman or man becomes engaged it is ALWAYS a reason to celebrate. It is the introduction to a new life chapter, and a time for growth and the coming of new things. Kosovar tradition calls for late night fireworks at the house, celebratory gunshots and further letting the neighbors know your good news by blasting music into the wee hours of the night. The grooms family then starts preparing for the arrival of the bride (nuse) by buying her beautiful dresses and clothing to have upon arrival.

Bachelorette Party
     Kanagjegj - the Albanian word for what would be deemed the bachelorette party in the US. I recently attended a Kanagjegj for my host mothers niece and it is a very interesting celebration. It is primarily for the bride's family to celebrate her, to see what her future husband has done for her and to say good-bye before the big day. Everyone gets dressed up, just as they would for the wedding. The celebration is usually held at a smaller restaurant and family files in as they please. Once most attendees arrive, the music gets turned up louder and the infamous (what I am dubbing) Albanian circle dance - begins. It is when you do different steps rhythmically while "dancing" in a circle holding hands. During Kanagjegj there is about 7-10 outfit changes by the bride to be and each outfit more fabulous than the last. During one of the dances the groom will show up and they may dance together quickly. During this time various family members will give money to the bride and the Bridegroom as gifts for them. The bride usually starts out with the traditional outfits and works her way up to a red dress that she does the Henna ceremony in. The Henna ceremony is where the bride dips her 5 fingers in henna and leaves an imprint on paper for her mother to remember her by while family members sing songs about missing her, and jokingly "bashing" the groom's family for taking her away from them. During this part of the ceremony, is when the bride is allowed to "grieve" briefly for her family and her past life before looking forward and celebrating her new beginning.
    
     After Kanagjegj there is another celebration where the family celebrates the wedding and the bride's family prepares to take her to her future house with her husband and his family. There is lots of music, family and friends and they all line up in cars like a motorcade with Albanian and Kosovar flags. When it is time to take the bride to the house they file out one by one and beep their horns almost all the way to the grooms house. The bride's car is usually covered in red and white ribbons and other decorations which makes the car look like a present with boos and trimmings attached (fitting huh?). During this drive she is typically dolled up looking her best in a beautiful gown.


Wedding Day!
     I have not attended an actual wedding yet but form what I am told it is a BIG to do. Weddings are usually held during the week, on a Tuesday or Wednesday evening and is at a big restaurant. It lasts for hours with dancing and eating prevalent throughout the night. Family, including those of the diaspora*, and friends come from near and far to celebrate the new start of the family. To let people know the wedding is coming the family will continuously play music at the house from 3 days before the wedding to three days after the wedding (Music is a big celebratory thing here). During the reception, the couple dances to the traditional wedding song and the dancing goes on for hours.

     Wedding season is an amazing and busy time in Kosovo that can not be fully described but really should just be experienced. With so many weddings occurring every week you are bound to be invited to no LESS than one a summer (and that's being generous in the minimum). Here are some photos from the Kanagjegj I attended with my host sister, brother and host Mother!

Host mama and I.

 Recent Bride in Traditional wedding attire

 

Nafi and I

Recent brides and the Bride to be in the middle

Ready for dancing!

 Albanian Circle dance!

 

Bride and Groom dancing

Another traditional wedding outfit.

Her henna dress - my favorite!

During the Henna ceremony.

Singing about the Groom's family.

Dancing after the ceremony!

My family and I!

Mama and her qikas (chicas)!

Preparing to take the bride to her groom's house.

Happy Wedding Season!

____________________________________________________________________________________
*Diaspora refers to the family members who are abroad but are Kosovar Albanian. After the conflict/war in the 90's many left in search of safe havens and work in countries such as Switzerland, Germany, Belgium, Canada and the U.S. They typically return to visit family in July-August, during wedding season, and help bolster the Kosovar economy with an influx of money during this time. They also support relatives in country throughout the year with allowances etc.

My Aunties Asked *Special Edition* / Q & A

     So I have a huge family, who are always asking ALL these questions in regard to my service. Now, don't get me wrong, I love that they are all so enthusiastic and want to vicriously live through me / want to be all up in my business (yes, I said it LOL) but the questions, which most others may ask as well, are repetitive and its a little exhausting answering the same question. So in honor of my aunties they get a *special edition* aka CIA detective question/answer post about the ins and outs of my life here in Kosovo per our group chat anf questions/statements presented there...

Question 1: How is your new Host family
 - : My new host family is BIG! I have a cousin getting married next week and I (unfortunately) can not attend the wedding due to class *insert angry face emoji here*. There are 4 people in my family, my Host parents, and their two children - a boy aged 16 and a girl aged 14.

Question 2: Do you have your own room
 - Yes, I do. It is a Peace corps mandate that you receive your own room/space and it have a lock and that the family provide you with a key, as well as other safety measures that must be abided by to be considered as a host family.

Question 3: Did you get to see your future school
 - No, I didn't. My director (principal) is on vacation so I wont be able to visit the site until I am at my site for good.

Question 4: who attends the school?
 - I am at an elementary school and will be teaching grade levels 3-9 as of right now. My host sister will be taught by me for one year and after this year will go onto high school and wont be with me.

Statement 1 - I think it is time for a new blog entry
 - Apparently, Auntie, I couldn't agree more (hence why you are reading this ;)

Question 5: Who speaks English
 - Unlike my current host family where my host sister/PIC (partner in crime) speaks English, pretty much ... EVERYONE (shocker I know!) speaks English or can at least understand it in my next host family.

Question 6: Do you have chores?
 - It depends, we have to iron out how they would like me to assist and what role I will have in house duties. As a volunteer you are considered as part of the family and therefore would be treated as such. I will more than likely assist with cleaning and cooking/serving as that's what the women do int he household.

Question 7: Why doesn't my host mom know how to speak English?
 - Well I cant quite answer that as we have yet to get that in depth with each other. However, she can understand English so It will be interesting her helping me with my Shqip, and I with her English, along with other family members.

Question 8: Are you going to be able to see other PCV (Peace Corps Volunteers)?
 - YES! We all can meet up after the first three months in our service. There are about 5 or 6 volunteers that will be near me from my group and I think about 4 from K1, Kosova, I hope you are ready!

Question 9: How far are PCV from you?
 - There is one Volunteer about 15mins away, and other volunteers are spread throughout the country. There are some 15ish volunteers in a 80km radius of me so its very encouraging and we can see each other fairly easily by bus.

Statement 2: Don't miss any questions now ok?!
 - ... Trying my best hahaha

Question 10: When do you officially move to your site?
 - I move to site after we swear-in. Until you swear in, you are considered a PCT (Peace Corps Trainee). PST (Pre-Service Training) lasts about 2-3 months dependent upon the country. During PST you are in language classes 6 days a week and 5 days a week you have policy classes and activities, as well as some day trips to visit different areas within the country.

Thank you Ladies for the questions, and let me know if anyone else has any questions/topics you would like me to post about... Below are new photos for your entertainment.

Some of the Ladies before we headed to the Ambassadors July 4th Soiree

My outfit for the Soiree

Some of our gents

 

View looking toward the mountains at my new place

Overlooking the town, Oh the beauty in nature

When we met the President the only picture I found of me.

The President and I

Looking at the mountains with cloudy skies

Apricot tree in front of my house

 

View from my families kitchen window.

 

Diten e Mire!

First Observations

     In light of some recent observations we had to complete as part of training I figured I would share some cultural differences I have begun to identify and things we have discovered.

Gender Roles/Responsibilities:
     There seem to be, at least in my current PST Site (I can not speak on my next site as of yet because the culture within Kosova is so different depending on where in the country you are), a firm set of roles and responsibilities for each gender. Men tend to be providers. They are economically responsible for the families well being and growth. In light of the unemployment faced here by many young men in Kosova, many families tend to be co-dependent and brothers/siblings will help each others family if they are facing difficulties. Women are the care-takers and homemakers. Older women tend to stay home, tend to children and raise them in a respectable manner. Some women do work, but there are limited opportunities in the country right now. Both males and females go to University, with English being a popular major among the youth and the potential opportunities associated with that degree/skill.
     Men have the ability to be seen more in public. They frequent the cafe's and other establishments, some of which are "Male-only''. Even some cafe's are male only; it is definitely an interesting thing to look at, considering the café in my town, while not Male-only, you wont find any women there besides myself and two other female volunteers. Women more so stay in house except for their nightly group walks. They visit house to house and aren't typically seen outside, especially alone.

Dating:
      When I asked different people about dating here, it was made clear it is unlike the US where we date around to find likes, dislikes, or just for fun. Here you date with the intent of marrying. That is not to say casual dating is non-existent, I just have not come across it personally. Those that are unmarried, tend to stay in the families home and assist the matriarch in household duties (if female) Males tend to work if they have a job and contribute to providing for the family. Additionally, dating is not done overtly. It is usually secretive and more so for women than men. Here a women's name still has a lot of weight and those who may be deemed promiscuous are not seen favorably for marriage. The "PDA" typical of American society is not prevalent here. Hand holding is pretty much the most you will see in public, but even in private their isn't much of the "lovey-dovey" interaction between, those dating and those in marriages. The interesting note on the previous remark is that men are very much affectionate with each other here, and to an American man may put him off, but the hugs and thigh grabs here are very much acceptable amongst men. I was a little thrown off when I was told it is also the norm for women here to be married before 21 and that is typical. It is also commonplace for parents to reject a marriage and have women choose between their family and their spouse, where if they choose the latter their familial ties with whichever dissenting parties are cut. Additionally, women who may leave their husbands for whatever reason are considered/called widowed and it is more acceptable for them to marry someone previously married rather than someone who has not been married before.

Social Interactions:
     In social interactions the genders are still fairly separated. Women go to the restaurant or café with other females unless they are with family members. When my fellow trainees and I go to the café, we are mixed males and females, which is not typical here and then add in our loud American accents and the people of Kosova are staring interested in the current "American show" taking place- hahaha! I recently went to a disco here and even that was different from the US. There was virtually no dancing except for my host sister, cousin and I and even then we two-stepped all night. There was no dancing between men and women (from what I saw) and if there was dancing it was a side to side sway on the part of women. The men tended to look around, watch the ladies and interact amongst themselves. Even when men may find you attractive their isn't any of the hand grabbing or touching of a female as is typical in the US. Here you may get a wow, or bukerie (beautiful) thrown into the air but that's typically the end of it. (insert gasps from women across the US here lol)

These are just some observations/experiences I have had/seen specifically. This should not be considered to be commonplace in all of Kosovo, but it is what I have observed in my current area.